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       In the car!, Making the WDTV work in a car
    Joel
    post Jul 1 2010, 09:52 PM
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    Greetings,

    I just bought a car with a rear seat dvd player.
    The screen has inputs for video and audio, so, I'd rather use my WDTV instead of a bunch of disks.

    Is there an adapter that would allow me to plug the WDTV into a 12V power port?

    I'd rather not use an inverter.

    Thanks!
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    post Jul 1 2010, 09:52 PM
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    neverlift
    post Jul 3 2010, 07:33 AM
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    Hi Joel,

    Buy a 12v 2amp car adapter at radio shack > http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...ductId=3802146 I was not lucky enough to find one locally that fit into the wdtv so I had to hack apart the one I bought as well as the original wdtv wall adapter. Attached them both together and it worked like a charm. Also look for a Ground Loop Isolator to hook up to the wdtv, I bought mine through this ebay seller decent_deals ... model: Tsunami FL-GL400. Pretty straight forward, just remember to unplug the wdtv when not in use so you don't drain your car battery.

    Cheers!
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    neverlift
    post Jul 3 2010, 12:07 PM
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    I want to see pictures of your set up once you get it going in the car. I will add some of mine as well later today.
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    ab32
    post Jan 11 2011, 12:07 PM
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    QUOTE (neverlift @ Jul 3 2010, 07:33 AM) *
    Buy a 12v 2amp car adapter at radio shack > http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.js...ductId=3802146 I was not lucky enough to find one locally that fit into the wdtv so I had to hack apart the one I bought as well as the original wdtv wall adapter. Attached them both together and it worked like a charm. Also look for a Ground Loop Isolator to hook up to the wdtv, I bought mine through this ebay seller decent_deals ... model: Tsunami FL-GL400. Pretty straight forward, just remember to unplug the wdtv when not in use so you don't drain your car battery.

    I would be cautious about that. The product shown will do no regulating. Most cars are 14 to 14.2 volts at accessory outlets when running. that is close to 20% over WDTV specified voltage.
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    neverlift
    post Jan 11 2011, 02:15 PM
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    QUOTE (ab32 @ Jan 11 2011, 11:07 AM) *
    I would be cautious about that. The product shown will do no regulating. Most cars are 14 to 14.2 volts at accessory outlets when running. that is close to 20% over WDTV specified voltage.

    Well please guide us in a better direction cause we obviously need it. Do you have any suggestions for a good adaptor?

    Cheers!
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    ab32
    post Jan 11 2011, 07:27 PM
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    The guys who do car PCs use specialized power supplies that start at around $60-70 to protect against under and over volt. those of course have a 12 volt rail that is very well regulated (typically +/- 1 to 2%).

    That is probably on the high range of costs but if one takes into account the differential per TB of 3.5 enclosed vs 2.5 enclosed Hard drive the cost is mediate. You certainly woudl not run a 3.5 hard drive directly unregulated off a car's "12" volt current (often fluctuating between 10 and 15 volts) and normally at 13.5 to 14 volts in most cars, as you would destroy it pretty quickly.

    A 2.5hd which uses 5 volts from the USB for power is somewhat protected if you go through the 5volt available on the WD USB, but as I mentioned you are paying a premium

    Options:
    1) Car PC type PSU with 10 to 18 unregulated volts in and regulated 12 and 5 volt out: About $65

    2) High quality 8 to 20 volt in 12 volt out DC/DC regulated supply one can find on ebay on occasions, for example military surplus, about $30 to $40

    3) Mid quality DC/DC 24 volt to 12 volt step downs which are actually 12-24 in, 12 out.

    Eg:
    http://cgi.ebay.com/DC-24V-12V-5A-60W-Step...er-/20050165620
    http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-DC-13-40V-Out-DC-1...A-/260711613645
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=130471584270

    4) An inverter and the WD's wall wart. This is very cost effective if you have or need an inverter for other reasons.

    #2 and 3 if a couple of watts or more have the benefits of: a) being able to safely power a 3.5 hdd, (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cool.gif) safely power add on monitors (headrest and flip down)

    It is pretty easy to find 12 to 5, 12 to 9 etc. 12 to 12 is not in much demand. The thing is that 95% of cars are putting out 13.5volts and most 24 to 12 are really 13-24vots to 12 volts regulated, they just don't specify it. Just remember car electronics are hardy and by design very tolerant of the voltage environment in cars.

    Other car install considerations
    You can hack open the WD and run an second IR sensor. I have done it on our WD TV Live in one car and our seagate theater plus ($40!) in another. IR sensors (not emitters) have three connections and you can either open the box and direct solder one, or if you choose to keep your unit easily removable, you can mount a three pole 3.5 jack. This is great for keeping the device out of the way and only having an IR sensor out in the open (you can feed and tape inside a vent.)
    IR extender part example: http://cgi.ebay.com/Remote-Control-IR-Eye-...D-/230572171675

    You can use a timed relay in a tap off of always hot to give you 10 to 20 minutes standby. this is good if you stop at gas stations, bathroom break etc so you can resume film where you stopped.

    The interfaces on the WD and the Seagate are fine on native resolutions common on cheap composite-in car monitors today of 1280x600 or 1024x600 or 800x480, but be aware there are also older very cheap 400 or 600x234 etc that will not allow you to see text or menus well. If you are getting monitors get at least 800x480 native. they are wicked cheap nowadays anyway.
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    neverlift
    post Jan 12 2011, 06:00 AM
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    Thanks ab32 for the great information. Now we won't be guiding people in the wrong direction.

    Cheers!
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